1967 Triumph TR4A

 Next, side panels of millboard covered with red wool carpet were press fit into the inner fender recesses.  

 A custom fit, red wool, edge bound carpet was laid over the trunk floor millboard.  

Finally, after installing the John Skinner boot carpet set, it bothered me seeing the white paint of the wheel wells. It seemed incongruent with matching carpet everywhere else. I contacted John and he provided me with material to cover these areas as well. John now offers the wheel well pieces with the boot carpet kits.

Did I say “finally”? With my TRs so far, nothing is ever “finished”. There is always another improvement or enhancement just waiting to be discovered. 

 The TR series of cars never had consoles, although back in the day, accessory manufacturer AMCO made one that was used in many TRs from the TR2 through TR6. Clark & Clark Specialty Products make one today with a leather padded arm rest, two storage compartments, and two auxiliary power outlets. C&C recommend screwing the console in place. I used heavy duty hook and loop tape to allow easier servicing of the electrical connections. Since this car has a new AAW wiring harness, the two power outlets were wired to allow one to power on with ignition and the other with constant power. They can be used to power cell phones and GPS units or other similar devices.

 While this TR4A never came with a radio, after I retrofitted a RetroSound radio to my 62 TR4 and was able to match the knobs, escutcheons, and display with the original look, I definitely wanted to install one in this TR4A that was destined to have everything. The 60s era, Triumph-branded radio featured a silver cased display, black knobs, and chromed escutcheons. This Hermosa model not only resembles the period correct radios but also offers Bluetooth connectivity, a USB port, two rear mounted auxiliary ports, as well as AM and FM reception and a microphone to allow hands free cell phone use.  

 I was able to find an original speaker enclosure in one of my parts TR4s and rebuilt it to house a RetroSound dual voice coil speaker that plays both right and left stereo channels from a single location. 

 For improved cooling, a Wizard Cooling aluminum radiator with attached Spal electric fan was installed. The unit features a sensor plumbed into the tank and a fan controller to turn the fan on only when the desired coolant temperature has been reached and off when the coolant temperature has dropped satisfactorily. 

 When an electric fan is installed, it can be installed as a pusher (in front of the rad) or a puller (behind the rad). Puller installations are said to be more efficient. In order to install most electric fans as pullers, the stock fan and cast iron fan extender/spacer need to be removed.  

 Rick Patton (Patton Machine) makes a gorgeous piece of machining that allows you to replace the six and one half pounds from the mechanical system with an eight ounce piece of billet aluminum.  

 TR4As still relied on generators to provide the limited electrical power. A more reliable source of power is a more modern alternator. Most upgrades using a modern alternator use a variation of the Delco 10 SI series that is commonly available in most automotive parts stores. A 63 amp unit from Triumph Rescue (British Wiring) was used. This kit provides everything you will need for the conversion. 

 The starter was replaced by a more modern high-torque gear reduction starter. In addition to its lighter weight, these starters draw far less current than the originals.  

 Rather than the stock fibreboard radiator surround, a GoodParts polished stainless steel rad surround was installed. Details in the photo are difficult to decipher until you realize most of what you are seeing is the reflection in the mirror-like finish. 

 56 year old wiring may not be the safest electrical situation so the wiring was replaced by a new wire harness from Advance Auto Wire. While these harnesses may require a little more work to install – all wires have to be terminated - the gauge of the wires is better suited to our cars than the higher gauge original wiring. Also, the units use seven relays and eight modern blade fuses. Additionally, I used a Polycase watertight, poly carbonate enclosure for the main power block. 

If you are looking to upgrade the lights in your TR4A, an excellent choice is the complete bulb kit from Classic Car LEDs in the UK. The kit includes every bulb required including the gauges, brake lights, turn signals, etc. You can even include LED headlamps if that is the way you wish to go.

 The original headlamps leave much to be desired, especially on dark country rounds. At the time I made the decision for headlamps, I still wasn’t sure about LEDs so I purchased a set of Cibié quartz halogen lamps. With the AAW wiring harness, the lamps are switched by relays and each lamp: high, low, right, and left is individually fused. If I were making the decision today, I think I might try the LED headlamps offered by Classic Car LEDs. 

 The original air filters on the TR4A are attached to the SU HS6 carbs with 5/16”x3 ¼” bolts.  This is not a common size bolt and neither 3” nor 3 ½” bolts will work. The 3” are too short and the 3 ½” will foul on the carb body. I replaced the standard air cleaners with a pair of 56-9311 K & N filters. These cannot be installed with the existing hardware. In addition to the K & N filters, you will need four 5/16” x 1” bolts, lock washers and flat washers 

 In order to install the K & Ns, you will need to disassemble the filters. Slip a lock washer onto one of the 1” bolts. Follow this with a flat washer. Pass the bolt/washer combination through the hole on the back of the filter base, through an air cleaner gasket and through the flange on the carb. Place a nut on the bolt where it exits at the back of the flange and finger tighten. Align the back of the filter enclosure and the gasket with the other hole on the flange and affix with another bolt/washer/nut combination. When everything is aligned, tighten the bolts and nuts. The photo also shows the Alexander Racing Enterprises (ARE) stainless steel heat shield below and behind the carb bodies. The heat shield installs with existing hardware. 

 Place the filter media into the backing plate and cover it with the front plate. Secure the front plate to the two posts with the screws that were removed when the filter was disassembled.

 Repeat the process for the other carb. 

 Anyone who has ever owned a TR2 through TR4A knows how awkward an oil filter change on the original cannister oil filter can be. One of the first improvements these owners add is usually a Spin-on oil filter, so this addition was a no-brainer. The accompanying photo also shows the fuel shut-off valve that was installed in the rubber hose leading from the fuel pipe at the chassis to the fuel pipe at the fuel pump. These pipes are 5/16” OD and I obtained a Motion Pro valve at a local Motorcycle Parts Shop.

 The original shocks were replaced by a pair of adjustable Spax shocks.  Initially, the brake hoses were replaced with new rubber hoses when the calipers were rebuilt. However, without ever having the brakes applied, these were replaced by a pair of braided stainless steel brake hoses.  

After a new Wilton Wool carpet set, leather seats, and leather door cards/rear surround, the wood veneer dash that previously looked wonderful in this 36 000 mile original car; now looked a bit lacking. It was replaced with a new burled walnut veneer dash from Rimmer Brothers.

The new dash had a matching set of burled walnut door cappings available, so the newly replaced OEM type were themselves replaced with the set offered by Rimmer Brothers.